Choosing the Right Wood for Your Handmade Decor

1. Where to Start Choosing Wood For Your Handmade Decor

Every piece I create can be built using various types of wood. The right choice depends on what you're buying, how you'll use it, and the aesthetic you're aiming for. This guide will help you make an informed decision without needing to become a wood expert first.

If you already know you want walnut, maple, or reclaimed pallet wood, feel free to skip ahead. If you're unsure, let's start here.

2. Quick Decision by Use Case

• Cutting boards, charcuterie, and anything food-contact: Use hardwood only — maple, cherry, walnut, curly maple, or white oak. Avoid red oak (it has an open grain that absorbs liquid) and softwoods, which are too soft for knife use.

• Home decor, organization, trays, boxes: Any wood works here. Choose based on appearance and budget.

  
  

• Outdoor pieces (planters, garden decor): Opt for pine or hardwood, finished with outdoor Varathane. Planters that hold soil should have Marine Spar inside to protect against water.

  
  

• Rustic, character-rich look: Reclaimed pallet, crate, or barn wood is ideal. Blemishes, nail holes, and color variations add to the charm.

  
  

• Distinctive natural pattern in a refined piece: Ambrosia maple or spalted maple offers stunning natural figuring without the roughness of reclaimed wood.

  
  

• Consistent, clean look: Pine (stained) or solid hardwood — maple, cherry, oak, or walnut, depending on your color preference and budget.

  
  

• Budget is the priority: Pine or reclaimed pallet, crate, or barn wood are great options.

  
  

• Premium showpiece: Choose walnut, curly maple, or cherry for a standout piece.

  
  

3. Wood Options at a Glance

4. Character Woods: Ambrosia and Spalted Maple

Not every hardwood looks the same. Some maple varieties develop unique character during their life in the forest, resulting in stunning visuals.

Ambrosia maple features grey and brown streaks left by the ambrosia beetle. These marks are purely visual and do not affect the wood itself. Each board is unique.

Spalted maple showcases dark, ink-like lines caused by fungal activity before the wood was dried. These patterns appear as if drawn on, but they are entirely natural. Once kiln-dried, the wood becomes stable and safe for use.

Spalting can also occur in other species, such as birch and sycamore. Ambrosia markings can appear in various hardwoods. I stock maple because it's local, abundant in Ontario, and beautifully displays both effects. Both options are premium choices for buyers seeking a showpiece, like a charcuterie board where the wood itself serves as the design.

5. What I Won't Use — and Why

Red oak for cutting boards: The open pores of red oak wick moisture, including juices from meat, deep into the grain, making it hard to clean. White oak has closed pores and is safe for food use. This is why you'll see red oak in my decor pieces but never in cutting boards.

Softwoods (pine, fir) for cutting and charcuterie boards: These woods are too soft. They score deeply from knife cuts, trap food in the grooves, and don't withstand regular cleaning.

Treated lumber for anything food-related: Pressure-treated wood is suitable for outdoor structural use but contains chemicals that shouldn't come into contact with food.

Non-Canadian suppliers: I only source from Canadian suppliers. This supports the local economy, shortens the supply chain, and ensures I know who I'm buying from. Some of what those suppliers stock is imported, and if you request a species I don't normally carry, we'll discuss what's available and its cost before I purchase.

6. How the Wood Is Prepared

Every board that enters my workshop requires preparation before it's ready for building. I mill each piece with a planer and jointer to ensure it's flat, true, and at the right thickness for the project.

Hardwoods are kiln-dried before I receive them. This process stabilizes the wood, preventing warping and cracking while ensuring the moisture content is suitable for indoor use. Once in the shop, I mill each board to size.

Reclaimed wood — including pallet, crate, and barn wood — is heat-treated. This is a legal requirement across North America (the ISPM 15 standard) to prevent pest transfer, ensuring the wood is safe and stable by the time it reaches me. I then mill it down, removing surface weathering, old markings, and any staining while preserving the character (nail holes, color variation, worm marks) that makes reclaimed wood unique.

Reclaimed hardwood from the grain industry is heat-treated like all reclaimed wood. Since it comes from a food-industry environment, it's safe for food-contact charcuterie and cutting boards once milled. I also use it in centerpieces and decor pieces where the wood's character is part of the appeal.

7. Finishes — What Each One Is For

Different pieces require different finishes. Here’s what I use and why:

• Varathane (3 coats): My standard finish for indoor decor, organization, and tray pieces. It's durable, water-resistant, and easy to wipe clean. Once fully cured, it's safe around food.

• Polycrylic (3 coats): Used on the exterior of decor pieces that will directly contact food, like the outside of snack trays. This water-based finish is low odour and food-safe once cured.

  
  

• Walrus Oil (3 coats): A food-safe blend of mineral oil, coconut oil, and vitamin E. I use this on all charcuterie, cutting, and serving boards. It penetrates the wood, protects against moisture, and allows the natural grain to shine without a plastic-looking film. Re-treat with a food-safe oil or wax every six months, depending on use.

  
  

• Outdoor Varathane: Ideal for pieces that will be outdoors. It blocks UV rays, resists weather, and protects against rain and humidity.

  
  

• Marine Spar: Used inside planters that hold liners with soil and water. It's a trusted choice among boat builders for a reason.

  
  

• Food-safe epoxy: Used on the inside of pieces like my snack tray, where food goes directly on the surface, as well as for inlays and decoration on my boards.

  
  

8. Custom Wood Requests

Every made-to-order piece allows you to choose the wood from my regular offerings. If you want a piece I typically offer in pine or reclaimed wood done in cherry, maple, or walnut, that's a custom order. You can request it through the custom order form, and I'll provide a quote based on your wood choice.

If you're interested in a species I don't normally stock, just ask. I'll check with my Canadian suppliers to see what's available and discuss the cost before I buy.

A note on timing: Custom orders may take longer than my standard turnaround. Sourcing a specific species might involve checking a few mills, and if you've requested something outside my usual offerings, I need to factor that into the schedule. If you have a deadline (like a gift or event), please let me know when you inquire, and I'll confirm what's realistic before you commit.

9. A Note on Wood Movement

Wood is a natural material, and every piece I create will experience some movement over its lifetime — regardless of the species or finish. This isn't a flaw; it's simply how wood behaves.

Wood expands slightly in humid conditions and contracts in dry ones. You might notice a small gap open along a glue line, a lid that fits perfectly in summer but feels snug in winter, or a subtle warp on a wide surface. All of this is normal.

I design with movement in mind — allowing for expansion, orienting grain to reduce stress, and finishing all surfaces so moisture is absorbed and released evenly. However, no piece is entirely static. This is part of owning something made from a living material.

To minimize movement:

• Keep pieces out of direct sunlight.

• Avoid extreme dry heat (like being next to a fireplace or on top of a radiator) and extreme damp (like being over a humidifier or in a bathroom without ventilation).

• Aim for the same conditions that keep your home comfortable — wood likes what people like.

  
  

10. Caring for Your Piece

Care depends on the finish. Here’s a brief overview:

• Varathane and Polycrylic finishes: Wipe with a damp cloth only. Never soak or place in the dishwasher.

• Walrus Oiled boards: Wipe clean and re-treat with a food-safe oil or wax every six months (or more if used heavily).

• Outdoor pieces: No special care beyond wiping down; the outdoor finish handles the work.

• All wood: Keep out of direct sunlight and avoid very dry or damp environments.

  
  

Finishes continue to cure for 10–20 days after the final coat. Your piece will ship after about a week of curing, so handle it gently for the first week or two after it arrives.

More detail on each species and its characteristics can be found in the Wood Guide: Every Species We Use and Why.

11. Still Not Sure?

If you're torn between two wood options for your handmade decor piece, or if you have a specific use in mind that doesn't fit neatly into any of the categories above, get in touch. I would prefer to help you choose the right wood before you order rather than have a piece disappoint after it arrives.